Bohemian in Kolkata, Winter Travels
Kolkata travels always are about good food, trying new food ideas and food places. Left to my choices, I would eat non-stop street food, but the tummy does not permit.
This trip my find of choice is Bohemian, A South Calcutta establishment all set to shake up the flavor. Just a little the Bengali way! The location, the decor, the set up, all reminds me of my teenage years. Probably sharing the same generation and the talented Chef Joy Banerjee.
The Decor
If you are a South Calcutta bred person like me you will experience layers of familiarity and nostalgia. This small but interestingly set up restaurant reminds you of a house. The kinds you hang out in for non-stop Adda. True to form, the window has an eclectic mix of spice jars and classic rock labels. Chef Joy Bannerji and his team, perfect the down at home feeling.
Fusion or Modern, it is Food Done Right
Playing with flavors, is a tricky concept. It can be hit or miss. In Bohemian it is more hits than misses.
The general concept of Chef Joy Banerjee’s cooking is indeed very close to my heart. He is broadening people’s horizons and concepts about Bengali cuisine, its flavors, possibilities and potential.
As I say in my book, Bengali food has been shaped by a multitude of influences. There are some very conventional ingredients that are favored on the Chef’s menu. The classic Gandhoraj or Indian style Meyer Lemon being one of them. He adds this to his sauces, his drinks and desserts, in well, joyous abandon.
The chef also has a penchant for the Bengali spice radhuni. This is uniquely Bengali. And it is used in very interesting ways in both fish and meat dishes on his menu. A spice that needs a subtle touch, something that these dishes certainly have. The chef certainly does this well.
A not so new trend are the restaurants that are specializing in Bengali cuisine. Bohemian as the name suggests is different. It is about mixing it up just a little. Yet, if you are a product of my generation, you will find the vibe very familiar.
About Customer Service
It is always difficult to plan schedules well ahead of time when on vacation. We ended up calling the restaurant right on Christmas morning. I did a lot of persuading to get reservations (or bookings as they are called in Kolkata speak)! I truly appreciated the juggling around done to accommodate us. Walking into the neat, compact and carefully done up restaurant is much like walking into someone’s house. It does not have a hackneyed or industrial feel to it. And just to fee the vibe, I would recommend making a stop to check the place and grabbing a drink or so.
Some Things that I tried.
A delicate corn and spinach puff is a lighter take on a samosa. The joyous lamb chops (a pun on the chef’s name) and prawn cutlets made awesome appetizers. The dipping sauces deserve their own special mention.
Right from the mustard aioli to the sweet chili chutney like dip! Every sauce presents a delicate and interesting dimension of flavor.
Mom and Anshul had both ordered fish dishes. Mom found the garlic in her dish a little too strong. But then again my mother is rather particular about her flavors. Anshul could have used a little more heat in his
cooking. I personally had to taste everything. The sauces or gravies could be lighter. Especially to showcase the nuanced seasoning.
Fish dishes included Bhetki galore. An easy to navigate firm fleshed fish. Sauces included galangal or Aam Ada sauce. Another dish included fish with radhuni.
My green chili mutton is from their holiday special menu.
The Presentation
Food is about the details and in the presentation, there is plenty. The greens or shaag, while very typical and traditional have a lighter touch, and work well with the crushed bori or lentil nuggets, a refined version of this dish that I have shared with you here.
The Co-Ordinates
Bohemian
32/4 old ballygunge 1st lane,
Bondel Rd,
Ballygunge Park, Ballygunge, Kolkata, West Bengal 700019, India
+91 33 6460 1002